Islamic clothing in China: white caps, headscarves, doppas and silk

Muslim clothing in China: many peoples, many styles

Muslim clothing in China cannot be described with a single image because China is home to ten officially recognised Muslim ethnic groups. The Hui, the largest, are found across the country and speak Chinese; the Uyghurs, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Tajiks, Uzbeks and Tatars live mainly in the northwest; the Salar and Dongxiang are concentrated in Gansu and Qinghai. Each people has its own idea of what is festive, practical and modest in dress, so halal clothing means different things from Gansu to Guangzhou.

Islam arrived in China more than a thousand years ago along the Silk Road and the sea routes, and the Hui communities that descend from those early traders and settlers have long dressed much like their neighbours, with a few distinctive additions. Elsewhere, among Turkic peoples of the northwest, Muslim clothing took on a Central Asian character.

Within every group, individuals follow family custom and personal conviction about covering, and scholars hold differing views on details, so what one person considers fitting, another may dress differently.

Hui dress: white caps and headscarves

For Hui men, the most recognisable item is the white brimless cap worn for prayer and in daily life, sometimes called a white hat in English. In some regions men also wear a dark waistcoat over a long-sleeved shirt, or a long robe at the mosque, and a beard is kept by many older men.

Hui women often wear a headscarf, in Chinese a gaitou, a short veil that covers the hair, ears and neck. In some communities the colour has traditionally signalled age or status, with brighter shades for the young and darker or white ones for older women, though this is a custom rather than a rule and varies by place. The scarf may be made of chiffon, cotton or silk, and often has a fringe or lace edge.

Everyday modest clothing otherwise follows regional Chinese fashion: long skirts and trousers, tunics, padded jackets in northern winters and light cotton in the humid south.

Uyghur and Central Asian halal clothing

In the northwest, Uyghur dress draws on Central Asian traditions. The doppa is a small, square or round cap, richly embroidered and worn by men and women, while the chapan is a long, loose, quilted coat for winter. Women wear dresses in atlas silk, a bright tie-dyed fabric with feathery patterns associated with the Hotan area, often in bold colours.

Kazakh and Kyrgyz communities, long associated with herding, have their own felt hats, embroidered waistcoats and sheepskin coats, and Tajik communities in the high Pamir region wear brightly embroidered caps and robes. Such Islamic clothing has developed for mountain and steppe conditions as much as for faith.

• Hui: white prayer caps, short headscarves, dark waistcoats.
• Uyghur: embroidered doppa, chapan coat, atlas silk dresses.
• Kazakh and Kyrgyz: felt hats, quilted coats, sheepskin.
• Salar and Dongxiang: embroidered caps and tunics in Gansu and Qinghai.

Climate and fabrics from desert to rainforest

China spans very different climates, and Muslim clothing follows them. The northwest has hot summers and bitterly cold winters, which is why quilted coats, wool and sheepskin are valued, and why a long chapan that can be wrapped at the waist is so useful. Dry air and wind also encourage the use of scarves that cover the face and neck against dust.

In the southwest, for instance in Yunnan, humid weather makes breathable cotton and linen more sensible. In coastal cities, where Muslims live among a dense urban population, office clothes, long cardigans and light raincoats are typical.

Silk has an ancient place in the region, and many shoppers appreciate local weaves. Opinions among scholars differ on silk for men, and some families therefore reserve silk for women's clothing and festive wear.

Hui and Uyghur tailors alike are skilled at adjusting Islamic clothing for the cold, adding linings and padding to robes and long dresses.

Where to find Muslim clothing in Chinese cities

Muslim neighbourhoods, and their clothing shops, often form around a mosque. In Xi'an the Muslim Quarter near the Great Mosque has stalls selling caps, scarves and souvenirs besides its famous food, and in Beijing the Niujie district around the Niujie Mosque is another long-established centre. Linxia in Gansu, sometimes called Little Mecca, and Yinchuan in Ningxia have shops for prayer caps, robes and religious books.

Xinjiang's bazaars are known for doppas, silks and embroidered goods. In large cities, Muslim restaurants and community shops display the Chinese word qingzhen, which is the term for halal, mostly for food, but sometimes seen on shops that serve Muslim customers.

Chinese online shopping platforms offer halal clothing such as prayer caps, scarves and long dresses at a wide range of price points, and sellers ship nationwide. Read reviews, look closely at fabric photographs and confirm the size chart, since sizes can run small.

Tailors in Muslim districts will often make a robe, waistcoat or long dress to measure within a few days, which is useful for visitors and residents who need a garment for a wedding or a mosque visit.

Law, religion and buying rights for Islamic clothing

The Constitution of the People's Republic of China, in Article 36, states that citizens enjoy freedom of religious belief, and practice is regulated by the state. In practice, the rules for religious activity and the way they are applied can differ between regions and institutions, so anyone who travels or lives in China should check local regulations, especially for schools and public bodies.

As a buyer of Muslim clothing, you are covered by the Law on the Protection of Consumer Rights and Interests, which sets out rights regarding product quality, accurate information and, for many online purchases, a short period in which goods may be returned without giving a reason. The State Administration for Market Regulation oversees market supervision and handles complaints.

These points are general and do not amount to legal advice. If you have a dispute, consult the platform's customer service or a legal professional.

Festivals, weddings and travel

On Eid, called Kaizhai Festival or Corban Festival in Hui communities, people dress in their best and go to the mosque for prayer, then visit relatives. Men wear clean white caps and often new jackets, women wear their finest scarves, and children get new clothes. Uyghur celebrations call for doppas and silk dresses, with music and dancing in some places.

Weddings reflect heritage. Hui ceremonies often include an imam reciting the marriage vows with the families present, and the couple may wear a mixture of traditional and modern clothing. Uyghur brides may wear atlas silk dresses with embroidered caps, while Kazakh brides wear tall headdresses with veils.

Visitors to mosques in China are expected to wear modest clothing: long sleeves and trousers or a long skirt, and a scarf for women. The best approach is to ask a local contact what is appropriate.